Roni Helou, le nouveau génie qui coud la révolte et la beauté.
Dans les rues chaotiques de Beyrouth, le nouveau génie de la couture trace sa route avec l’audace des grands rêveurs. Roni Helou, styliste engagé, porte le Liban sur ses épaules comme on porte un tissu précieux, fait de blessures, de couleurs, de résistance.
De Creative Space Beirut à Starch Foundation : un tremplin pour le nouveau génie de la couture.
Tout commence en décembre 2016. Diplômé de Creative Space Beirut, école alternative de mode ouverte à tous les talents sans distinction de moyens, Roni est aussitôt repéré.
Rabih Kayrouz et Tala Hajjar, fondateurs de Starch Foundation, lui ouvrent les portes de leur plateforme. Deux saisons durant, ses créations défilent à Fashion Forward Dubaï.
Un souffle nouveau venu du Liban s’élève sur les podiums du Golfe.
Une reconnaissance internationale.
L’année 2017 est une constellation de promesses tenues. Le prix de la Fondation Boghossian le distingue. Il s’envole pour une résidence à la Villa Empain, à Bruxelles, où l’art dialogue avec la mémoire.
Puis, en 2019, Londres. Il y représente, seul, tout le Moyen-Orient à l’International Fashion Showcase. Une sélection exigeante, un écho profond : Roni devient une passerelle entre deux mondes, entre le local et le global, entre la douleur et la grâce.
Une marque personnelle, profondément politique.
Cette même année, un programme de mentorat lui permet d’affiner la vision de sa marque. Une marque qui porte son nom, Roni Helou, mais surtout ses convictions.
Éthique. Durable. Responsable. Le vêtement devient manifeste.
Les médias ne s’y trompent pas : Vogue Arabia, Harper’s Bazaar Arabia, Elle India, The National UAE saluent son travail. Non pour son esthétisme seul, mais pour le message qu’il tisse.
Quand la crise devient source d’inspiration.
Sa collection automne-hiver 2019 naît d’un drame. Celui des ordures, de la déchéance, de cette peste contemporaine qui recouvrit le Liban d’un manteau d’immondices.
La rue ne respirait plus. La société étouffait. Alors, Roni transforme la décharge en catwalk. Il refuse le gaspillage. Il sublime l’abandon.
Le recyclage comme réinvention poétique.
Chaque pièce est faite de tissus oubliés, issus de stocks morts.
Des fragments de passé, vintage et nobles, réassemblés avec tendresse :
maillot, laine, popeline, nylon, denim, dentelle, mousseline, gabardine… Autant de textures qui racontent. Autant d’histoires cousues dans le silence des ateliers.
Des formes sportives et rebelles créées par le nouveau génie Roni Helou.
La silhouette se fait urbaine, fluide, libre. Des fermetures-éclair, des cordons, des collages. Un geste net. Un langage graphique. La forme prend le relais du verbe.
C’est le cri d’une génération qui ne veut plus plier.
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